july 27th
the time has come to leave il de re. just over the bridge to the mainland, is the gorgeous city of la rochelle. nicknamed the white city, its stunning architecture and streets are, of course, all white stone or stucco. the town sits on the bay of biscay and serves as one of france's largest harbors. the industrial part of the city does not interfere with its charming historic interior. small winding streets, cafes and shops galore - and what i imagine stunning apartments, means i want to live here one day. or at least spend a couple of weeks. :)
we spotted a sailing camp. perhaps when the kids have full command of the french language, we can enroll them and take an apartment here for a the duration of the camp. ooh la la.
there are 2 towers old towers that guard the entrance to the old port. the saint nicholas tower and our family favorite, the chain tower. during the 14th century, the tour de la chaine, was la rochelle's main line of defense. nightly, a huge chain was wrenched across the harbor opening, making it impossible for large ships to enter. today you can tour the bowels of this building. i would not want the job of chain operator. this chore, however, intrigued the kids.
at first i thought this was the birthplace of joan of arc....well, it isn't. turns out a nasty lady, catherine de la rochelle, opposed joan of arc. oops. this discovery definitely removes part of the towns cool factor but it is gorgeous nonetheless.
..........
we hit the road and didnt look back. there is something really cool about going from the flat beaches to the stunning french pyrenees mountains. it is difficult to accurately describe how large, lush and stunning these peaks and valleys truly are. the temperature drops, your ears pop and your eyes are in overdrive. small ancient farms littered with cows, horses and/or the remains of some amazing stone building are commonplace.
we stopped in the small town of urdos beside a rushing river for dinner. we ain't in paris anymore dorothy....this kids' french fries were delicious. the wine too but the food just didn't hit the spot. i swear the cassoulet i ordered contained gelatin from goat hooves but bakes says it was squid....from the mountains....because this makes perfect sense. i still get the willies when i think of its texture and taste. yuck.
we arrived at our hotel just before dark. i could sense the huge looming landscape but with night and fog covering their peaks, i had to wait for morning to get a good feel for its beauty. our 2 rooms cost us just 100 euro for the night and included breakfast. while very clean, they haven't been updated since the 60's. with goat gelatin in my belly, i could have really "gone there" and been grossed out but there was something strangely comforting to its pink sink and blue tile bathroom. perhaps it reminded me of my grandparents. dunno. but i liked it there.
the kids LOVED it. the bidet was their all time favorite. lots of giggles around that ancient ceramic thing....lord help me....and our neighbors.
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